LEONARDVILLE

23-24 May 2013: Days 9 & 10 of 43 – Fort Worth TEXAS (State 5).
Overnight in Fort Worth TEXAS.
Today 1,366km, Total 4,279km. 

On Thursday 23 May 2013 we drove the longest leg of our epic trip: a big 613 miles (987km), the equivalent of Sydney to Brisbane. We left at 7am and drove across the south-eastern corner of Colorado, the north-western corner of New Mexico, across and down almost most of Texas to reach Fort Worth at 6:30pm. The drive was easier than we thought, probably because of the six 100-mile shifts we drove, two each, except of course for Bubba. The roads were in good condition, mostly divided and the view basically ran out shortly after leaving Colorado. The rest, especially Texas, is dead-pan flat – as far as the eye can see. At first desert and then farmland  - mainly wheat. 

We knew we hit Texas when we started seeing “Nodding Nellies” or mini oil pumps in the middle of the wheat fields. Our half-way stop at Claude, just outside Amarillo, was a typical Texan diner complete with guys wearing boots, jeans and cowboy gallon hats. What a relief it was to pull up to our hotel in the University quarter around 3 miles (5km) from the city centre. We did well. Not too tired after 200 miles each of driving. After a quick shower it was off to eat a big Texan steak at the Stockyards National Historic District which I first visited in 1993 with my brother and Nick “Bundy” Drinias. 

It looked exactly the same except with more rides and amusements for kids. The Stockyard area of cobblestone streets and decorated wooden shop fronts selling boots, gallon hats and steaks celebrates the cattle raising tradition of Fort Worth which identifies itself with beef versus Dallas with oil. There is a silent rivalry between the two “brother cities” whose CBDs are separated by only 20 miles (32km). Fort Worth area has a population of 2 million whilst its oil soaked brother Dallas touches 5 million. Visiting the Stockyards at night is best given the muggy 30C conditions we experienced during the day. Our all-wooden H3 Steakhouse was classic Texas with Bison heads (and bums) on the walls, cow-hide covered chairs, a huge hickory fire grill and even Moose Antler Chandeliers overhead! 

Thelma and Louise shared a 250g Fillet Mignon whilst I had no trouble polishing off a 1kg T-Bone which in the USA is actually called a “Porterhouse”, much to everyone’s surprise. Bubba had BBQ shrimp – true to his character! Once again we enjoyed Malbec from Mendosa Argentina for its taste and to reminisce Ai Caramba! 
The next morning we returned to the Stockyards around 8:30am to visit the giant covered, dirt floor, Coliseum (American spelling!) where rodeo shows are held every Friday and Saturday evenings. 

This place was built in 1907 and features an excellent Hall of Fame featuring all the famous rodeo winners and everyone who has ever performed there including Bob Hope and Elvis Presley. Naturally I added the Texan Dag Dance to the list beside a wagon cart in the middle of the stadium – you will need to wait for Root69 – The Movie to find out. It was then off to the centre of Fort Worth CBD aptly named “Sundance Square”. It is not a single plaza but comprises a whole collection of red brick buildings covered several city blocks. The modern skyscrapers surround this open area so you do get that crammed-in city feeling – quite nice. 

During our mid-morning coffee break we were fortunate to have an incredibly friendly and informative waiter who recommended we visit the small Leonards Museum just outside the CBD area. What a find. Turns out that Marvin and his brother Obodiah (Obie) Leonard are the exact parallel story of Sidney Myer the founder of Myer department stores in Australia back in 1901. In 1918 Marvin bought everyday items of the day in bulk and sold them cheaper than the individual stores that sold them on the street. 

By 1925 they had established a whole complex of interconnected stores in the CBD selling everything from food to boots to false teeth and making $USD8 million in revenues. The concept of the American Department Store was born. Marvin and Obie even created their own currency during the depression and funded and built the first ever free subway under Fort Worth CBD to get customers to and between their many stores. They held annual Christmas parades and special in-store shows, complete with mini-monorail for children and became a house-hold name in Fort Worth and all of Texas. Sound familiar? Sidney Myer did the same. 

Sadly, in 1967 the Leonard brothers sold the business to Tandy Electronics who were then bought by Radioshack who on-sold the business to another US department store chain who are now broke. What a story. Marvin was only 22 years old when he peddled on the streets. What was even more amazing to us is that Lauren, the young lady who took us through the museum, is the great Grand Daughter of Obie himself. We then returned to the Stockyards to catch the daily Texas Longhorn Cattle Drive at 11:30am. A whole bunch of cowboys rustle 20 or so huge cows down the main street to the cheers of tourists and school kids from other parts of the US. From here it was a brief stop at the nearby Fort Worth Cultural District that is a bit like Moore Park road barracks in Sydney, housing museums, banquet halls, green houses and sports venues. Root69 set off for Austin, the Capitol of Texas at high noon...